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Removing the Dash Assembly

(from Notes on Restoring Bricklin #887)

Originally written: 1994
Last updated: 12/17/04


©By: John T. Blair (WA4OHZ)
1133 Chatmoss Dr., Va. Beach, Va. 23464; (757) 495-8229

Is the pad on your dash board cracked? Has you air conditioner had the modifications made to it? Do you need a new heater core or fan motor? Are you restoring you car from the ground up? What do these questions have in common? The dash board must come out. Like most jobs, if you haven't done it before, it can be a real chore. I think it took me over 6 hours to get 887's out. This was because I didn't know what I was doing or how to do it. However, I now have a lot better idea of how things go. With 20x20 hind sight the job shouldn't take more than an hour.

Complete Dash Have you ever tried to remove the headlight switch? I worked on this for several hours and even enlisted the aid of a neighbor who is big on muscle cars. We spent quite a bit of time playing with it before we went to his manuals, but more on this later.

Let me say that the previous owner had installed some kind of anti theft devices and there is wire all over the place. There is also a slide switch under the dash that appears to be going to the radio. I don't know how much of this nightmare is stock, but I can see that I really have my hands full trying to sort all this out.

Speaking of the wiring, I haven't been able to find a wiring diagram for the Bricklins. Consequently, I'm working on trying to draw one up as I go. But if anyone out there has a wiring diagram I would appreciate a copy. (Note: The picture shows how the wiring is routed behind the instrument cluster, and the wiring diagram shows how it is wired.)

One last item before I continue. Bricklin didn't install a cigarette lighter as he felt that smoking in a car was unsafe. I'm not going to argue his philosophy except to say that there are a lot of nice attachments for a car that run off the cigarette lighter socket. Here, the last owner actually did something partially right. He installed 2 cigarette lighters on the lower lip of the passengers side of dash, where there is a lot of wasted space. However, he didn't solder the wires together, he simply twisted together or wrapped around their terminals and taped. This is unsatisfactory and unsafe. If any high current device were attached, like a Ham or CB radio, it could have started an electrical fire. If you decide to make a modification like this, be sure solder or crimp the wires. In addition, be sure to fuse the leads going to the lighter socket.

The dash board is composed of 3 pieces: the padded or upper section, the plastic lower panel, and the instrument cluster. The instrument cluster is the first and easiest section to remove. It is held in place by 12 sheet metal screws around the perimeter, the speedometer cable and one of the flex ducts for the air-conditioner. I can't tell you exactly what is the easiest way to remove the speedometer cable and the flex duct. All I know is that I did a lot of things wrong trying to figure it out! On 887, the flex duct was held to the vent with duck tape. I would suggest trying to come up from under the dash and removing the flex duct from the vent and the speedometer cable from the speedometer. If you can't reach them, wait until the instrument cluster has been freed from the dash. To do this, remove the 7 screws from the face of the panel and the 5 screws from across the bottom of the panel. Now Instrument Cluster the instrument cluster can be pulled away from the rest of the dash just a little. At this point you have access to the speedometer cable and can detached it from the speedometer. This will allow some more movement of the cluster and if the flex duct hasn't been removed, it should be possible to remove it now. As the instrument cluster is pulled outward, you will notice 3 connectors that attach all the gages and their lights to the wiring harness. Since these three plugs are of different sizes and shapes, it is not necessary to label them. Once these are disconnected, the instrument cluster can be removed from the car.

upper padded dash The upper (padded) section is the next to be removed. It is attached to the lower part of the dash by several #10 studs and nuts (requires a 3/8" wrench or socket). I've marked the studs and nuts with white paint so they would stand out in the pictures.. You will have to crawl under the dash to remove them. Where is Tom Thumb when you need him? There are 3 larger nuts (requires a 1/2" socket), that attach the upper section to the firewall, which also accessed from under the dash. Finally, there are 2 nuts and bolts which attach a bracket at the center of the dash to the vertical supports from each side of the transmission tunnel. These bolts can be accessed through the opening were the instrument cluster was located.

lower dash section To remove the lower portion of the dash, it will be necessary to remove all the knobs and switches from the dash. The knob for the windshield wiper switch will simply pull off, this will leave a small clip on the shaft. At the end nearest the dash the clip has a loop that surrounds the switch shaft. Place a pair of needle nose pliers between the loop and the dash and gently pull towards the rear of the car. This should allow the loop to move forward, stop binding on the shaft and let the clip slide off the shaft. Finally, the nut attaching the switch to the dash can be unscrewed. (Note: I would suggest that you place a rag over the chrome or plastic nuts before gripping them with a pair of pliers. This will help prevent the chrome and plastic from getting marred.) Before pulling the connectors from the switch, I labeled the switches and the wires going to them with masking tape. This way I'll know what the switches and wiring were for. Place all the switches and clamps in a plastic zip lock bag to keep them from getting lost.

Headlight switch The headlight switch is a real jewel. I've played with English sports cars most of my life and I've never seen a setup like this. However, I've been told that this is typical GM. To remove the knob from the headlight switch, look under the dash at the bottom of the switch. You will see a small pin with a spring wrapped around it(See picture left, red arrow). Push this pin in and pull and twist the knob. The knob and the entire shaft will come out. It takes a little fiddling with to get the thing apart. Who would have guessed? Now that the knob is removed, the round black nut can be unscrewed and the switch can be removed from the dash.

The knobs for the heater controls do not have to be removed as the entire control panel can be removed by removing the 4 - #10 nuts (require a 3/8" wrench) from the back of this control panel. Once the nuts are removed, the control panel can be pushed toward the front of the car and off the 4 studs.

The knobs for the radio will have to be pulled off to reveal the nuts that actually hold the radio to the dash. Unscrew each of these nuts. There are 2 courtesy lights, one under each side of the dash, that must be removed. They are held in place with 1 phillips head screw each. Finally there is a stud attached to the side wall of the body, on each side, that also holds the dash in place. After removing the nuts from the studs, the lower section is ready to come out of the car.

Be very careful with this lower dash panel as it is all one piece, very long and fragile. In effect, it is 3 pieces, one piece goes from the steering column to the left side of the car (very short) and the other goes from the steering column to the end of the passengers side (very long). These 2 pieces are connected by a small "U" shaped piece that goes over the steering column. This is where it will break. Be sure to support the entire length of this lower piece to prevent it from breaking.

Now that the dash has been removed, you have access to all the under dash items such as the heater and Air conditioning boxes.

Enjoy your car,

John


Rear view sketch of the Instrument Cluster Panel

Rear view sketch of the Dash Instruments Wiring

Sketch of the Instrument Cluster Wiring

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